Sweets News

I'm coming out of prenatal hibernation to give word of this very exciting event: National Brownie Day! On December 8, the venerable treat will be celebrated (apparently the first brownie recipe was found in a Sears, Roebuck Catalogue from the 1800's - factoid courtesy of Greyston Bakery. If you'd like a discount on Greyston's chocolate fudge brownies, espresso bean brownies, or walnut/brown sugar blondies, E-mail me for a discount code. Meanwhile, I'm about to conduct a home bake-off of the Barefoot Contessa's Outrageous Brownies and Jacques Torres' Pure Bliss Brownies.)

Tea Box Café at Takashimaya - and a Note to Readers

I've always wished that a giant, multi-level Japanese department store would open in NYC - the kind that has a rooftop garden, an art gallery, a floor devoted to kimonos, and, of course, a floor devoted to restaurants. As it does not seem that this will ever be in the cards, I still enjoy a trip to the exquisite (and expensive) Takashimaya - especially the Tea Box Café.

The East-West Afternoon Tea is a splendid affair, with a bento box filled with goodies like green tea creme brulee, chocolates, butter cookies, fruit salad, and a small selection of savories - vegetable crisps, a curried rice paper roll, a tiny chicken sandwich, and smoked salmon pressed into rice (for vegetarians, cucumber/pickled plum is an option). The box comes with your choice of various green, black, flavored black or herbal teas (I always get the genmaicha).

Note to readers: My most recent visit to the Tea Box Café was a party to celebrate the impending arrival of a new generation of foodie for my companion and me. Because of this, I will be taking a break from this beloved blog. However, since it's been a labor of love since 2002 (yes - I was one of the first NYC food bloggers!), I hope to eventually contribute to it again. In the meantime, I will keep the blog online, but probably won't be updating it. Have a great winter.

Takashimaya: 693 Fifth Ave., (212) 350-0180.

Sweets News

• If you are indisposed to leaving the apartment but must have a Jacques Torres chocolate bar within the hour, this service promises to deliver one to you!

• In other chocolate-related news, the 92Y is holding a "For the Love of Chocolate" book signing, interview and chocolate tasting with Max Brenner on November 15. For more information, please visit the 92Y Website.

• Don't forget about the most exciting chocolate event of the year - the annual Chocolate Show! It's back at the Metropolitan Pavilion this year, from October 30-November 1.
  

Destino

With its clubby, congenial atmosphere, Destino seems like the local restaurant that's been around for years. It's only been open for three, but the meatballs have already become legendary, and live jazz at the bar helps to nurture a loyal clientele. (What a rarity live music has become in this city!)

We were lucky to get in without a reservation; a large birthday party was dispersing. The menu contained all the traditional Italian favorites: veal marsala, chicken cacciatore, scampi, pasta with clams in red or white sauce. One of us pleaded for fried zucchini, although it wasn't on the menu, and a large, lightly-fried portion soon appeared. Our appetizers also included a garlicky Caesar salad, a salad of beefsteak mozzarellas and fresh mozzarella, and those delicious "Mario's Meatballs"... plump specimens smothered in a tasty tomato sauce. (I looked around, and almost everyone had some on their table.)

I had been leaning towards pasta (you can order spaghetti, angel hair, linguine, orecchiette, rigatoni, fusilli, penne, fedelini or shells!), but instead went with Dover sole meuniere, which arrived with lots of crisp slivers of toasted almonds. Also on the agenda were a gargantuan veal chop and branzino with asparagus.

We finished with 20-layer cream crepe cake and mixed berries with fresh vanilla whipped cream. Destino really knows how to please a customer! Make a reservation; you might not get lucky like we did.

Destino: 891 1st Ave., (212) 751-0700.

Stumptown Coffee Roasters

Dapper young gents in ties and newsboy hats fix sharp espressos and velvety cappuccinos at this heralded new coffee place. The adjoining hotel lobby, where most of the customers sit, is a very picturesque room in which to take coffee - as we sunk into comfy chairs, my friend and I admired the detailed mosaic floors and antique library desks. We also admired our Mast Brothers chocolate bars and the assorted pastries - big salty pretzels with a pocket of butter, apricot danishes, brownies, and the wonderful spicy stout cakes (I wish I'd bought two of them).

Stumptown NYC: Ace Hotel, 18 West 29th St.

Sweets News

Today's edition of Sweets News focuses on online delights.

• If you're like me, the closing of Payard had you crying for a week. Fortunately, the bakery/chocolatier's E-boutique has been launched, and the site will eventually have news of... a new brick-and-mortar location!

• Earthy-crunchy chocolatier Pure Dark has just relaunched an online store as well. Here's a nifty tip - if you want to receive 15% off your order, just use this promotional code: PD012009. This offer apparently expires on October 7; but it's never too early to order some treats for a healthy Halloween!

Vegetarian Cafés on the Upper West Side

On a mini-health kick, I decided to check out a couple of the newish UWS veggie cafés. My first stop was Peacefood Cafe (460 Amsterdam Ave., 212-362-2266), a vegan restaurant with an enticing bakery display (have you ever seen vegan tiramisu?). There were various salads and sandwiches; I ordered a tempeh avocado sandwich, chick pea fries, and a ginger lemonade. Unfortunately, I ended up being a bit disappointed in the meal; the scant portion of marinated tempeh was overpowered by thick slices of rye and salty pickles, and the chickpea fries were not the Mediterranean-style panelle I'd anticipated. Instead of being light and uncomplicated like at the nearby (non-veg) Nice Matin, they were overspiced and studded with various seeds. (The ginger lemonade was very refreshing.) Also, I felt that the meal was overpriced at $20. Still, judging from how crowded Peacefood was, it is obviously filling a vegan void in the neighborhood.

I had better luck over at Soomsoom Vegetarian Bar (166 West 72nd St., 212-712-2525), which offers both vegan and vegetarian options. A friendly woman offered me a sample of greaseless, flavorful falafel, and I was hooked. The lunch special is only $9.75, and includes a falafel sandwich, beer-battered fries or a baked sweet potato, free rein at the chopped salad bar, and a beverage.

(In other vegetarian news, vegan blogger Lauren Ulm has just released Vegan Yum Yum: Decadent (But Doable) Animal-Free Recipes for Entertaining and Everyday.)

Brunch at Belcourt

My friend and I were seeking a reasonable brunch in the East Village, and were glad to find that almost all of the brunch dishes at Belcourt were under $10. Our favorite item was to be only $7: a plate of piping hot buttermilk biscuits, smothered in berry preserves and housemade ricotta, with an undercurrent of honey. My friend's cranberry granola was unsweetened yogurt was positively ascetic compared with this concoction.

The only other item on the menu that seemed as decadent was the vanilla bourbon French toast with ricotta and New York maple syrup, but I opted for the personal eggs. Mine came scrambled with a salad of mesclun greens coated with a lemony dressing, a small portion of paprika fried potatoes, and a regrettably dry piece of pork sausage (there was also maple-cured bacon and lamb ham). Although the eggs and potatoes were just fine, I think I would have been happier with a double portion of those wonderful buttermilk biscuits.

Belcourt: 84 East 4th St., (212) 979-2034.

"Let Us Eat Local"

On Wednesday, Sept. 16, a delicious event is coming your way! Restaurants like Blue Hill, Hundred Acres, Gramercy Tavern, and Telepan will be participating in Just Food's 2nd annual "Let Us Eat Local" tasting benefit. For more information, please call 212-645-9880.

Café Charbonnel NY

NYC may be souring on sweets, but I'm certainly not. My latest indulgence is the hot chocolate at Café Charbonnel NY, the chocolate café on the eighth floor of Saks Fifth Avenue. Made with dark and milk chocolate shavings, milk and a bit of heavy cream, it is full of cocoa flavor without being too rich. (Lately, there seems to be a trend of super-dark hot chocolate, but sometimes it is overpowering and not as drinkable.)

Café Charbonnel also features a conveyor belt; instead of sushi, it circulates chocolate-chip cookies, pastries, and trios of chocolate candy. (I recommend the chocolate truffle brownie.) If you decide to come away with a box of candy, there are all kinds of truffles; right now, the Milk Marc de Champagne truffles are 30% off.

(On another truffle-related note, the International Culinary Center is offering a Chocolate Treats and Truffles class on Saturday, Sept. 12.)

Café Charbonnel NY: Saks Fifth Avenue, 611 Fifth Avenue, 8th Floor, 866-478-7586.

Motorino

How does a housemade mozzarella, anchovy, garlic, arugula, black pepper and olive oil pizza sound to you? To me, it sounded terrific, but there are so many other options on the menu at Motorino (the above item was a special). As at Franny's Brooklyn, Motorino sports a selection of appetizers and salads in addition to the pizza, but the prices are lower (and to me, the pizza is superior). There's a great $10 lunch special - you get a choice of a hefty, herb-sprinkled green salad or a soup (the day I went, it was a sweet corn chowder with lots of smoky pancetta), and a giant pizza that is big enough for two meals. My friend and I each ordered the margherita, made with melted pillowy fior di latte mozzarella. The crust was only slightly charred; I find that some pizzerias get carried away with the char lately, but not Motorino.

I wish I could say that I was able to try the tiramisu, but it was all I could do to get through two of my four giant slices of pizza!

Motorino: 319 Graham Ave., Williamsburg, Brooklyn, 718-599-8899.

Takesushi

Takesushi, a six-month-old Japanese restaurant on the East Side, has a great lunch special for only $12. Today, it consisted of amberjack teriyaki with takuan pickles, five slices of tuna and fluke sashimi, simmered konnyaku, carrots and crunchy lotus root, two delicately fried pieces of pork tonkatsu over shredded cabbage, rice, soup and salad. The portions were not overwhelming, so my companion and I felt compelled to also order some sushi.

On a recent trip to Japan, my companion had enjoyed some individually-seared (aburi) salmon pieces. We wondered if the sushi chef at Takesushi might duplicate this preparation, and were delighted when he produced a little torch, rendering our chu-toro even more delicious. (Note: this particular delicacy does not fall under the "budget" price umbrella! But one feels less guilty indulging when the rest of the meal is so reasonable.) We look forward to returning for dinner.

Takesushi: 1026 2nd Ave., (212) 355-2048.

Never Be Without Chocolate

"You carry chocolate bars around with you the way other people carry cigarettes," a friend once said to me. Are you the same way? Do you shudder at the thought of being without chocolate? Then you might appreciate this awesome Website, Chocolocate.com. It has links to over 1200 chocolate-focused Websites around the world, from Australia to Ghana to Wales. No matter where you travel, you'll never be without that essential item - chocolate.

Vesta Trattoria & Wine Bar

Astoria boasts just about every cuisine in the world, but there aren't a lot of restaurants dedicated to locavorism (Brooklyn definitely beats Queens in this department). So it was a pleasure to find Vesta, an Italian place where the ingredients are seasonal and local.

With a dim, cozy interior reminiscent of Brooklyn's Frankie's 457, Vesta is comfortable for the couple or the family. I recommend arriving early, as service may suffer when there is a crowd. Remembering a delicious bucatini with broccoli rabe and shredded ricotta salata, I enlisted my companion on a visit tonight.

Unfortunately, the bucatini was no longer on the menu. However, that delectable greenmarket salad was still there. Crunchy with cucumbers, radishes and sliced almonds, it was full of lightly vinaigretted organic greens (courtesy of Greenpoint's Roof Top Farms). Another winner was a plate of three garlicky crostini served with a hot dish of baked Taleggio. The buttery melted cheese was garnished with date paste and hazelnuts. We also had the chilled tomato soup with basil cream, which was a sweeter, richer alternative to gazpacho.

Dinner was a pan-roasted salmon filet in lemon sauce on a bed of charred green and purple kale. Because of a backup in the kitchen, it took a while to arrive. Hungry from waiting, we eyed the half roasted chicken of a nearby diner - it seemed to be of a much more generous portion. (Pasta portions are quite generous - if I had to redo the meal, I'd order the festonati with zucchini pesto, cherry tomatoes and pecans.)

Vesta: 21-02 30th Ave., Astoria, 718-545-5550. Note to Astorians: on nights when there are enough restaurant staff, delivery is available.

Bread and Chocolate

On my recent trip to Paris, I ate a lot of outstanding bread and chocolate. This got me to wondering, which do I prefer? Fortunately, there are many delicious bread-and-chocolate combinations here in NYC, so I don't have to choose.

One way to enjoy both bread and chocolate at once is to pick up Theo Chocolate's Bread & Chocolate bar. (I bought mine at T Salon's Chelsea Market location, 75 Ninth Ave., 212- 243-0432.) This most unique chocolate bar features French bread, butter and sea salt in a base of 70% organic cacao.

Another option is the truly sinful chocolate-hazelnut bread pudding at Cornelia Street Cafe (29 Cornelia St., 212-989-9319). Smothered in thick, rich chocolate sauce and adorned with a generous dollop of whipped cream, it's a bread pudding to remember.

For a more traditional bread-and-chocolate combination, there's the superlative pain au chocolat at Madeleine Patisserie (132 West 23rd St., 212-243-2757). According to the woman at the counter I spoke to, the owner-baker will only use chocolate imported from France.

En Vacances

I've just returned from a chocolaty trip to Quebec City, and will soon be headed off to Paris for even more chocolate (even though author Michael Steinberger says "au revoir" to all that)! I'll be back to regular NYC posting duty soon.

Restaurant Week at Matsugen

One of my favorite dining companions recently turned 40, and we decided to celebrate at Matsugen (we are usually over at Zenkichi in Williamsburg). Fortunately, her birthday fell during Restaurant Week (July 12-31), so we were able to enjoy a generous five-course meal at a reasonable price. (Maybe Mayor Bloomberg can have this extended to Restaurant Year.)

At times, Restaurant Week portions are smaller than the average, so I ordered an extra appetizer - six bites of rich grilled eel atop ginger slices and julienned cucumbers. Although a delicious strategy, it proved to be an unnecessary one, as my friend and I were to be completely stuffed at the end of the evening.

We began with warm, spiced edamame and a bowl of cold, soft milky fresh tofu. The mildness and heat was a nice combination. Then we enjoyed a tasty seaweed salad - its ginger dressing avoided the unpalatable vinegar taste that often mars this dish.

Then, we waited, and waited. We looked longingly at the tempura and sushi and black cod on the adjacent table. We waited some more, and then our next-to-last course - soba - made an appearance at our table. "But," I protested, "weren't we supposed to get the tempura, sushi, and the black cod?" The server seemed intent upon depositing the bowls onto the table, but then he had a little conference with the server who had brought out the salads. "You weren't served the tempura, sushi, or black cod?" she came over and asked. I confirmed this, the bowls were taken away, and we waited a while longer.

The aforementioned items were so delectable that it would have been an absolute tragedy if we were denied them. "This is butter in the shape of a cod!" exclaimed my friend, upon digging into the miso-marinated slab of black cod. Shrimp and vegetable tempura was greaseless and delicate, and marinated tuna sushi melted in our mouths with meaty flavor.

We'd both chosen the hot duck soba (as opposed to cold sesame). A complex broth with ginger and yuzu was the setting for tender, fat-edged slices of duck and a healthy portion of thin buckwheat noodles. By now, the restaurant was completely packed, and I wondered if some of the diners used to frequent Honmura An.

A small ceramic cup of green tea pudding (with candle for my friend) was the final course. We plan to return to Matsugen, Restaurant Week or no.

Matsugen: 241 Church St., (212) 925-0202.

Around the World In Seven Days, Part II: Another Week in Astoria

Here is a sequel to Part I, with seven more countries to visit! (Where to go next? Egypt? Ecuador?)

1. Brazil (also see Malagueta): Brasilianville Café & Grill. This $4.99/lb. buffet will delight both the carnivore and the vegetarian. Spoon some buttered rice onto your plate, and start loading up on black beans, corn pudding, grilled fish, fried mandioca, acaraje, beef and carrot stew, battered chicken skewers, beet salad, and garlicky collards (the menu changes daily). If you crave more meat, go talk to the friendly guy at the grill... he'll fill up your plate with sirloin churrasco. Don't forget the exotic fruit shakes - I like the cacao pulp with milk and sugar. (Brasilianville Café & Grill: 43-12 34th Ave., 718-472-0090.)

2. Czech Republic: Koliba. If you dine here, I suggest fasting all morning and afternoon. Monstrous portions of pork or chicken schnitzel will challenge (and satisfy) the heartiest eater. Make sure to order the homemade tartar sauce on the side, and get the home fries with onion. Take some apple strudel home with you - you won't have any more room until tomorrow. (Koliba Restaurant: 31-11 23rd Ave., 718-626-0430. My grandma would have loved this place.)

3. France (Brittany, to be more specific): Cafe Triskell. At this tiny cafe, toothsome buckwheat crepes are served with a variety of fillings - I like the crumbly goat cheese, which arrives with a refreshing green salad on top of the big square crepe. Sweet crepes include apricot jam with almonds, and banana with buckwheat honey. Please be advised that this cafe is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays - I found out the hard way. (Cafe Triskell: 33-04 36th Ave., 718-472-0612.)

4. India: Seva. This restaurant is a local favorite. I found the paratha rather dry, but there was plenty of cheese in the palak paneer, and the spiced butternut squash soup was a winner. There are many vegan options, including a soy mirch masala. (Seva: 30-07 34th St., 718-626-4440.)

5. Mexico: (also see Tacos Mexico) Las Margaritas. This year, none of the food at the Broadway street fair appealed to my companion and me, so we ended up here. We ordered a couple of health-conscious specials...skirt steak on a spinach salad, and spicy shrimp tacos on soft, warmed corn tortillas (no beans and rice). Heartier dishes include fajitas, enchiladas and tacos al carbon. (Las Margaritas: 38-01 Broadway, 718-777-1707.)

6. United States (Southwest/Tex-Mex): Mojave. The beautiful backyard garden is the scene for
the consumption of countless fruit-infused margaritas. Service can be lackadaisical for lunch, but there's a reasonable two-course prix-fixe - I've enjoyed the salmon sandwich with chipotle aioli. I keep meaning to try the Mexican chocolate fondue. (Mojave: 22-36 31st St., 718-545-4100.)

7. Venezuela: Arepas Cafe. The best arepas in NYC are found here (sorry, Caracas Arepas). Slightly crispy on the outside, moist and dense within, the cornmeal pockets are large enough to hold a lot of goodies without overflowing. Fillings range from the exotic (truffle butter tuna with pico de gallo) to the traditional (shredded beef). $3 beers are served at happy hour - for a non-alcoholic alternative, try the phenomenal cafe de leche. (Arepas Cafe: 33-07 36th Ave., 718-937-3835.)

Sweets News

• What's better than a coffee shop that uses locally roasted, premium coffee beans? One that also serves homemade Italian ices! The cheery Cup on Norman, which opened a month ago in Greenpoint, serves orange, lemon and strawberry ices alongside a selection of coffee drinks made from Brooklyn's Kitten Coffee beans. And if you're especially lucky, you'll visit on a day when the blueberry butter cake (baked by the owner's mother) is in stock. (Cup on Norman, Norman St. between Lorimer & Manhattan Ave., Brooklyn, cuponnorman@gmail.com.)

• Chef Yoshie Shirakawa of Dessert Cafe Luxee was a finalist for the 2009 Golden Scoop Award -Almond Board of California Best Dessert Menu. Now you can learn to make green tea chiffon cake and choux a la creme just like her! She'll be teaching two French pastry classes at the cafe on July 12 and 26 - you can take the dessert home when you're finished with the lesson. For reservations, please call (212) 375-1796. (Dessert Cafe Luxee: 6 Clinton St.)
  

Lunch Under $5

It's time for another edition of "Lunch Under $5!" (Not including tax.)

• Lox Spread on an Everything Bagel: Daniel's Bagels, one of my favorite bagel shops, offers both plain and whole-wheat "everything bagels." A generous lox spread sandwich (ask for tomato, and you'll have all four food groups) costs $4.95 - if you want chopped herring or egg salad instead, expect to shell out only $4. (Daniel's Bagels: 569 Third Ave., 212-972-9733.)
  

• Two Slices of Artisanal Margherita Pizza: Golosi Artisan Pizza & Gelato, which opened just a few months ago, uses high-quality extra-virgin olive oil in its pizza. Two slices of tomato-basil-mozzarella will set you back $4.98. If you're satisfied with just one slice, order the Parma (tomato-mozzarella-prosciutto-arugula) for $4.50. (Golosi Artisan Pizza & Gelato: 125 Park Ave., 212-922-1169.)

• Seared Pork-Chive Dumplings: If you're in search of a lighter lunch, grab a six-pack of handmade dumplings at Dumpling Man. You can get them steamed or seared, with pork, chicken, veggies or shrimp - all for under $5, with the exception of seared shrimp. If you order the $3.95 steamed pork-chive dumplings, you'll still have enough room in your five-dollar bill to add a $1 sweet banana dumpling for dessert. (Dumpling Man: 100 St. Marks Place, 212-505-2121.)
  

Flavors of Chile: A Special Prix-Fixe at Centrico

Although the Fancy Food Show is not open to the public, one of its exhibitors - the country of Chile - has partnered with chefs Aaron Sanchez and Ryan Butler to spread the word about the unique ingredients it produces. Known for its wine, Chile also farms salmon and exports olive oil. The country is also home to interesting fruits like the murtilla (myrtle berry) and the carica.

From June 22-July 3, Centrico Restaurant is featuring a four-course menu of salmon ceviche with Chilean habaneros and murtillas, king crab tostadas spiked with smoky dried chilis, spicy strip loin on a bed of cactus and fingerling potatoes, and a delicious cake of fruity Chilean olive oil and cornmeal. I had the opportunity to preview this meal, and I especially enjoyed the goat milk dulce de leche and Chilean honey ice cream that accompanied the cake. The prix-fixe is priced at a very reasonable $35.

Flavors of Chile at Centrico: 211 West Broadway, (212) 431-0700. For more information about Chilean ingredients, visit www.prochile.us/centrico.

Pepe Verde To Go

I'm something of a pesto purist. So I'm always disappointed when I order a pasta al pesto and it arrives in a barely green, cream-laden sauce. Last week I had lunch at a restaurant (which shall remain nameless) where the "pesto" was a creamy tomato sauce with a few pathetic sprigs of dried basil. So, on my visit to Pepe Verde a few days later, I went up to the counter to inquire about the spaghetti with pesto sauce. "Do you serve real pesto?" I wanted to know.

A man who looked like an Italian Eugene Levy gave me a long look.

"Don't insult me," he said.

I guess it was the wrong question.

"Um, I was just making sure, because last week, I..."

"I've been here 11 years! Do you see all the signs on the wall?" The man pointed to the entrance.

There were indeed many framed newspaper articles at the front of the tiny, rustic room. "OK," I said, "I'll order the spaghetti with pesto sauce." (It was less than $10, like almost all of the pasta dishes - penne alla vodka with pancetta, fusilli puttanesca, rigatoni bolognese, penne arrabbiata.) When the substantial bowl of spaghetti arrived, the noodles were coated with a sauce which was deep green with basil and fragrant olive oil. No heavy cream or tomato paste!

Pepe Verde To Go: 559 Hudson St., (212) 255-2221.

Le Relais de Venise "L'Entrecôte"

You've got to love a restaurant that has one main course and a dozen desserts -not to give the main course short shrift, of course! Le Relais de Venise "L'Entrecôte", the newest outpost of a famous Parisian steakhouse, is now serving steak frites in NYC at a recession-friendly price of $24. For that price, you receive: some hunks of baguette (no butter - according to the server, the secret way to get butter is to order the cheese plate, which I did -but more on that later); a green salad with walnuts, its leaves well-coated with creamy mustard vinaigrette; and a plate of thickly sliced steak cooked according to your specifications (blue, rare, medium, well) drenched in a delicious "special" sauce (I thought I detected tarragon, wine and mustard, but the sauce is a well-kept secret) with a heap of short, crisp golden fries. If you find your plate too dainty, don't despair - your server will return mid-meal to deliver another portion of steak and fries!

Now for dessert. The wonderfully balanced cheese plate comes from Artisanal; the night I went, it consisted of camembert, gorgonzola, comte and goat cheese. There are also oodles of sweets - profiteroles, cherry tarts, peach Melba, sorbets, and desserts made with meringue or praline. I went with the moist chocolate-almond cake, which was garnished with a rosette of vanilla whipped cream.

If you hanker for a giant T-bone, this might not be the steakhouse for you. However, if you want a steak dinner that's both elegant and economical at the same time, head over to Le Relais de Venise before the lines start forming.

Le Relais de Venise "L'Entrecôte": 590 Lexington Ave., (212) 758-3989. No reservations.

Woorijip

Nestled among the barbecue houses of Koreatown is a great place for a quick, cheap meal: Woorijip. This small grocery-buffet offers many items which fit the bill for my Lunch Under $5 category. I stopped in the other night and came away with seaweed soup that tasted like the ocean, tricolor rice cakes, zucchini pancakes, glutinous rice with sweet red beans, delicious soy-boiled eggs, and a broiled eel bowl. Many other dishes caught my eye - a $5.50 plate of pork belly slices, a $3.50 bowl of kimchi fried rice topped with an egg, abalone porridge, and fried smelts. Not everything seemed appealing - ham and cheese sushi, anyone? But with such a large selection of low-priced dishes, I could buy and try to my heart's content. Everyone else seemed to have the same idea; their take-out bags and tables were stacked with containers.

Woorijip: 12 West 32nd St., (212) 244-1115. No rice cakes on Saturdays.

Bento Night

NYC is home to the French Culinary Institute, the Italian Culinary Academy, and as of this past April, the Japanese Culinary Center (711 3rd Avenue). The latter is holding an introduction to the Japanese bento box on Tuesday, June 30, from 7-9 pm. A variety of sakes will accompany the rice, fish, meat, dumplings, vegetables, pickles and dessert.
(To reserve a seat, E-mail japaneseculinarycenter.nyc@gmail.com.)

Sweets News - Father's Day Edition

Here are some sweet gifts for Dad!

• If Dad is a baseball fan, he knows that the Yankees and Mets are duking it out from June 11-14 and June 25 -28. Help him show his allegiance with some Yankees or Mets yellow cake cookies from Zaro's Bread Basket in Grand Central Terminal. (Available only during the Subway Series)
  

• Kyotofu is offering a "Cheers to Dad!" assortment of three types of artisanal Japanese beer (white ale, red rice ale, and ginger beer) and special sweets.
  

Cooking 101: The Course For Absolute Beginners

My private cooking lesson with Bettina Fisher whetted my appetite, so I enrolled myself in ICE's Cooking 101 (The Institute of Culinary Education: 50 West 23rd St.). This past Saturday, I attended the first of three sessions. Along with 13 other beginners, I donned an apron, filled my coffee cup and sat down at a table to listen to Chef Jane's colorful introduction. At our first class, which would mostly involve arrangement and presentation, we would be preparing shrimp cocktail, tomato mozzarella salad, guacamole, prosciutto-wrapped melon, a Mediterranean salad plate, a smoked salmon plate, and chocolate-dipped fruit. (Of course, we would be eating all of this at the end of the lesson!)

But first, Chef Jane passed around various herbs (parsley, thyme, basil, cilantro and dill) for us to become familiar with. She talked about knives, cutting boards, and bowls, and then gave us important advice about knife safety (apparently, an unfortunate assistant was once stabbed in the arm by a careless student!) and kitchen hygiene. She gave us an detailed rundown about the recipes we'd be preparing - here is how we would peel and devein a shrimp, here was an attractive way to cut an avocado, and chocolate buttons were always preferable to chocolate chips when melting in a bain-marie.

The lecture lasted about an hour. After a brief demonstration of basic knife skills and vinaigrette preparation, the class was divided into three teams, each of which would each prepare two different items. My team was responsible for the tomato mozzarella salad and guacamole (I was responsible for the unevenly-cut mozzarella).

The class worked quickly, and soon it was time for the unveiling of our finished masterpieces. Chef Jane pronounced the smoked salmon plate "one of the most attractive examples I've seen in this class." My team's guacamole was especially delicious, if I do say so myself! I was a bit envious that I didn't get to devein the bouillon-poached shrimp, but we were all given recipe booklets so that we can duplicate the dishes at home.

In the next two lessons, we'll be grilling burgers, making blueberry crisps and chocolate pudding cakes, roasting tomatoes for pasta, even making Parmesan frico on a Silpat. But I have a feeling that I will need much more instruction in order to really learn to cook; I suspect I'll need to enroll in the 5-lesson TECH 1 (and TECH 2, and TECH 3)...

Num Pang Sandwich Shop

Last night, a friend and I were searching for a cheap and delicious dinner. We were thrilled to discover that Kampuchea's amazing sandwiches can be found for $5 less at Num Pang Sandwich Shop (its sister restaurant). Why this is, I don't know... maybe it's because the menu is much less extensive. At any rate, I sunk my teeth into a special grilled Spanish mackerel sandwich ($7.75). The substantial, meaty fillet spilled out of the spicy-mayo-slathered, toasted roll, which was layered with the customary cilantro sprigs, shredded carrots and sliced cucumbers. My friend devoured his pulled duroc pork with spiced honey. "Good call!" he said. (And then, our wallets emptied of less than $10, we made our way over to Momofuku Milk Bar for some chocolate-mint soft serve.)

Num Pang Sandwich Shop: 21 East 12th St., (212) 255.3271.

Around The World in Seven Days, Part I: A Week in Astoria

My companion and I haven't lived in Astoria for very long, but we've already eaten our way around the globe! Here are some preliminary impressions, organized by country. (Of course, our journey is not over; there are many countries left to visit!)

1. Afghanistan: Balkh Shish Kabab House. The fried scallion turnovers (bolanee gandana) at Balkh will neutralize any craving for those leaden scallion pancakes found at Chinese restaurants. But my companion was disappointed in the tough lamb kebab; the salmon was much better. The rice was nondescript but the basket of thick, dense bread was satisfying. (23-10 31st St., 718-721-5020.)

2. Colombia: Botero's Cafe. The walls of this small cafe are decorated with prints of the painter's famous Rubenesque muses. After spending a little time here, I might become a muse myself. Arepas, or grilled corn pancakes, are served with melted tropical cheese, or avocados and shrimp, or "ahogado" (drowned in sauce), and the tostones are perfectly fried. (45-01 Ditmars Blvd., I can't find the number!)

3. Greece: Taverna Kyclades (also, see Elias Corner). An appetizer at Kyclades is enough for around 47 people (I'm exaggerating, but you get the drift). The fried calamari, the skordalia, and the grilled salmon steak are enough to send me over the moon, and I think I've never eaten better fried fish. (33-07 Ditmars Blvd., 718-545-8666.)

4. Italy: Michael Angelo's II Pizzeria & Restaurant (also, see Trattoria L'Incontro). I like my pizza with a thin crust, so someone recommended that I order the "Sofia Loren" pie. It was loaded with pools of melted fresh mozzarella and sliced fresh tomatoes, I only wish I'd eaten it in-house instead of having it delivered, because I think the crisp crust got a little steamed inside the pizza box. (29-11 23rd Ave., 718-932-2096).

5. Japan: Linn Restaurant. What a pleasant surprise: sparkling sushi on Broadway! It's certainly not cheap, but if you're craving Alaskan salmon roe, Japanese striped yellowtail, or even something like a fried oyster roll with wasabi mayo, you've got it all right here. A wall has been erected inside to obscure the C-Town across the street and to show Japanese movies. (29-13 Broadway, 718-204-0060.)

6. Morocco (well, Moroccan-influenced): Cafe Soleil. Every neighborhood should have one of these cozy hangouts with mismatched chairs and free Wi-Fi. Authentic Moroccan mint tea is served from beautiful silver teapots, and did I detect a bit of harissa in the potato pancake that came with my "classic French" omelette? (37-14 Astoria Blvd., 718-777-1015.)

7. Thailand: WAVEThai. I'm not going to enter the fray that is the apparent rivalry between WAVEThai and Thai Elephant, but suffice it to say that WAVEThai's "street noodles" (pad see ew) are addictive. You can order them with chicken or veggie chicken, beef, roast duck or veggie duck, squid, shrimp, tofu, scallop, or mixed seafood. The vegetarian duck's texture is meaty, chewy and substantial instead of thin and flimsy. Curries are nice and spicy. (21-37 31st St., 718-777-6789.)

Colson Patisserie

It hasn't taken long for the subway platforms to heat up, even though the weather has warmed only recently. The other day, I stepped off of the Park Slope F train, craving refreshment. Fortunately, a cool drink and a cup of gelato were only a block away. Colson Patisserie, which is known for scones and muffins which are wholesaled to cafes around the city (Cafe Grumpy is one), also makes its own gelato, sorbet and iced tea. The iced tea comes in mint, blood orange, pear, ceylon, chai, and pineapple papaya varieties, and the other day there was a special lemon-myrtle mint. As for gelato and sorbet, there are flavors like balsamic strawberry and brownie; the delicious Italian espresso dessert known as affogato is offered with a scoop of vanilla.

Colson Patisserie: 374 9th St., Brooklyn, (718) 965-6400.

The Perfect Coffeemaker for New Yorkers, Part 2

Back in 2004, I traded in my Saeco Vienna Deluxe grinder/coffeemaker for the Nespresso D290, which is a convenient, capsule-based machine. A month ago, my Nespresso went on the fritz. My companion and I were in the middle of moving five years' worth of belongings to our new apartment, and we didn't have time to send in the old machine for repairs.

We settled into the new place, but the kitchen counter was bare and forlorn without a coffeemaker. I called Nespresso and was told that a repair would cost $135. I wondered if the money might not be better spent on an upgrade, and I started browsing Amazon.com. Somehow I happened upon the Lattissima: a one-touch DeLonghi machine that uses Nespresso capsules to make latte macchiatos, espressos, lungos and cappuccinos. Strangely, the red version was $300 less than the chrome model, and over $200 less than the black one. The chrome model featured a cup warmer, but the black model was identical to the red one. Was this too good to be true?

I had to find out, so I cancelled my D290 repair and splurged on the red model, for which Amazon provided free shipping. I received the machine today, and was instantly enthralled by it. After a brief rinsing, I filled the milk container (the pamphlet recommended part-skim or skim, but whole milk worked just as well), set it to produce the maximum amount of foam, placed a coffee capsule up top, put a tall glass underneath the spout, and pushed "latte macchiato." Soon, a beautiful, foamy beverage was prepared with the least amount of human effort. (I've never been able to produce satisfactory foam except with my Aeroccino, and I always worry about getting its electric base wet). Some of the Amazon customer reviews were critical about the temperature of the coffee, but I definitely found it hot enough.

Now, our new apartment feels like home.

May 2009 Foodie Events

Here are a couple delicious tidbits from the Salli Vates inbox:

• On May 18 from 3-6 p.m., Grand Central Market will celebrate the beginning of grilling season at Grand Central Market. The special tastings will feature all of the hall's delights, including Murray's Cheese, Wild Edibles and Ceriello Fine Foods. (Grand Central Market: Lexington Ave at 42nd St.) (ETA: If you missed this event, with all of its samples - Murray's halloumi cheese grilled with olive oil and lemon, Pescatore's grilled shrimp, Ceriello's spicy sopressata, and Murray's Salami Farmer's Diner hot dogs served with ketchup and jalapeno sauerkraut - the fun is still not over. Through the 24th, many picnic and grill products are on sale at the market. Buy two filet mignon kebabs at Ceriello and get one free (the same goes for swordfish kebabs at Pescatore), pick up some of that halloumi ($2 off), and finish your meal with a pound of Li-Lac Chocolate's smores bars ($4 off).)
  

• May 18 is also the first day of "Riesling Week 2009." coming to New York from May 18 -24. Riesling tastings, flights and pairings can be enjoyed at restaurants all over the city; some participants are 15 East, Aquavit and Hearth. You can find a full list of restaurants here. (There's a fun interactive food-and-wine pairer on the Website.)

• On the following day, May 19, Dish du Jour Magazine will hold its 8th Annual Food & Wine Tasting Event at Astoria World Manor (25-22 Astoria Blvd.). Highlights will include a "best meatballs showdown." To purchase tickets, call (718) 777-7918.
  

Elias Corner

My companion and finally heeded the siren call of Astoria and all of its culinary riches - we moved there. I spent the past few days stocking up the fridge with taramosalata and tzatziki from Mediterranean Foods (23-18 31st St., 718-721-0221), skordalia from Angelo's Food Emporium (31-27 Ditmars Blvd., 718-278-0705), and still-warm, freshly made mozzarella from Rosario's Deli (22-55 31st St., 718-728-2920). Then, it was time to celebrate our move in an appropriately bacchanalian way; we headed over to the legendary Elias Corner.

Were it not for the elevated train, one would think this was a seaside restaurant. A display of glistening fish and shellfish is the focal point of the entrance, and the dining room is painted a nautical blue. We sat down to a giant loaf of sesame bread and a plate of olive oil, and listened to our waitress rattle off the menu (there is no printed menu). Did we want jumbo shrimp, porgy, red snapper, Chilean sea bass, striped sea bass, branzini, wild salmon, soft-shell crabs? Grilled or fried? Oh, and appetizers? Saganaki, fried calamari, Greek salad? How about sides? Fried potatoes, broccoli, lemon potatoes...

To start, we ordered the saganaki, a large brick of slightly melted, firm cheese enveloped in a thin, crispy crust. We liberally squeezed it with lemon and soon there was none left. We also devoured a tomato-heavy Greek salad, which was sprinkled with plenty of feta. Then it was time for the main event: the fish.

"I think this is the best fish I've ever had," said my companion. digging into an herb-sprinkled Chilean sea bass steak. Wordlessly, I agreed, my mouth full of sweet, mild branzini (I'd ordered it whole so I could enjoy the grilled skin). There was no way we could even attempt to eat the lemon potatoes in their bath of warm olive oil, and we had to have them wrapped up.

Sighing with satisfaction, we paid the check - and then walked over to Artopolis Bakery (but that's a subject for another post).

Elias Corner: 24-02 31st St., Astoria, (718) 932-1510.

Kambi Ramen House

If I'd known about the sheer volume of noodles in a Kambi ramen bowl, I would've foregone the shredded pork and chive dumplings with gingery dipping sauce, the whole shrimp in glutinous rice wrappers, the perfectly chilled tofu topped with heaps of bonito flakes and scallions, and the refreshing julienned daikon flavored with sesame and soy. Well, now that I think about it, I'm glad I ordered all of the above, in addition to my basic pork ramen. But the thin yellow noodles (you can also order thick, wavy, whole wheat or bean) in a garlicky golden broth were definitely the highlight of the meal. Two rounds of sake-stewed pork, so tender that they fell apart at their swirls of succulent fat when I just touched them with a chopstick, lay atop the mound of noodles. The bowl also contained thinly sliced bamboo shoots and a bit of seaweed. This might not be a popular opinion, but I enjoyed the ramen more than at Ippudo; Kambi was more generous with the noodles, and the pork slices were more substantial.

(If you visit Kambi and somehow have an appetite for dessert, the hottest bakery in the East Village is the nearby Momofuku Milk Bar. I wish this place weren't so darn tempting - last night I came away with a glass of wild strawberry milk, a chocolate donut soft serve ice cream cone, corn cookies, blueberry cream cookies, and an incredible slice of banana cake layered with salty hazelnut crunch and banana cream. Why, oh why.)

Kambi Ramen House: 351 East 14th St., (212) 228-1266.

Lunch Under $5

Opinions are divided on when the recession will end. So, until it does, I've decided to initiate a new post category: "Lunch Under $5." Here are my latest finds. (Note: some of these restaurants have more than one location, but I've only included the location I visited.)

• Fried Whitefish Sandwich: This hefty filet, topped with cheese and lettuce and served on a soft mayo-spread bun, will set you back $3.75. (Cafe Zaiya: 18 East 41st St., 212-779-0600.)
  

• 1/2 Lb. Cornmeal Crostata: A big wedge of this savory crostata comes in two flavors - ham, cheddar and Parmesan or zucchini and feta - and costs only $4.75 (Dishes At Home: Grand Central Market, 212-370-5511.)

• Rice Plate: Of the 30 rice plates at Great N.Y. Noodletown, only nine are over $5. My friend proclaimed the $4 soy-poached chicken "the best he's ever had." Also available are roast duck (How much is that ducky in the window? $4) and curry beef stew ($4.25). (Great N.Y. Noodletown: 28 1/2 Bowery, 212-349-0923.)
  

Melt Gelato & Crepe Cafe

Just in time for this summery weather, there's a new gelato shop. Melt's official opening is tomorrow, but tonight they are giving out free crepes and gelato (that's why there is such a crowd on 2nd Avenue between 55th and 56th, in case you were wondering). The coconut gelato is much too sweet for my taste, but the chocolate is good, if more on the milk chocolate end of the spectrum than the dark. There's also a fat-free mango flavor as well as raspberry and hazelnut.

Melt: 1053 2nd Ave., (646) 329-6445,

Sweets News

• Although we must say a sad goodbye to the Amai Tea & Bake House, we can say hello again to the Chocolate Bar (19 8th Ave., 212-367-7181) which is reopening on April 28 after relocating from the East Village. Executive Chef Gustaf Mabrouk will create new chocolate confections, including plain, raspberry and espresso Mallomars. (Now, if only someone could convince Chocolat Michel Cluizel to reopen...)

• Free brownie sundaes will be given out on Wednesday, April 22, and Thursday, April 24! The ice cream is from Ben & Jerry's, and the brownies are from Greyston Bakery. On Wednesday, be at Whole Foods Tribeca (270 Greenwich St.) between 12:30-2 pm, or Whole Foods Bowery (95 East Houston St between 4:30-5:30 pm. On Thursday, April 23, go to Whole Foods Union Square (4 Union Square South) between 12:30-2:00 pm.
  
  
  
  

Luxee Dessert Cafe (CLOSED)

Lately, it seems like I'm on Clinton Street all the time. The tapas at 1492 Food, four-cheese pizza at San Marzano, and tomato-mozzarella tarts at Falai Panetteria keep me coming back for more. And now I have yet another scrumptious reason to visit Clinton Street: the sweet-savory Parmesan souffle at Luxee. This towering, sugar-dusted, eggy dessert is already impressive; a tableside grating of cheese over the top renders it irresistible. The souffle is served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and a little bowl of hazelnut brickle.

There are many other treats for the adventurous sweets lover: green forest parfait of avocado and chocolate; a Mont Blanc with the surprising addition of tomato-rose jam; chocolate and star anise cake; and rose macarons. Different teas are recommended for each dessert - my souffle was paired with chamomile.

Luxee Dessert Cafe: 6 Clinton St., (212) 375-1796.

Lunch at Atria (CLOSED as of 5/09)

Restaurant Week may be over, but there are still some great deals to be had - especially for lunch. A friend and I are new fans of Atria's $27 three-course prix fixe.

Atria was partially fashioned from a landmarked Rockefeller townhouse, which was built in the early 1900's. After we waited in the sedate, low-ceilinged bar, we were surprised by the restaurant's breathtakingly modern dining room. A dramatic eight-story glass wall led up to a skylight. Rotating hanging sculptures, created from "found objects" in Brooklyn, evoked a sort of abstract planetarium. (According to our host, Paul, the view is even more impressive at night.) Apparently, the dining room was once a courtyard.

The stylishly plated French cuisine transfixed us as much as the decor. I was reminded of that much-missed favorite, Fleur De Sel. For an appetizer, I ordered a pale yellow fantasy of gnocchi with a delicate quail egg, Parmesan foam and a Parmesan tuile. My friend's matboucha, a traditional Moroccan dish, was a napoleon of tangy tomato, peppered ricotta and eggplant.

Feeling festive, I drained my glass of 100% Verdejo wine and then dug into my main course. The meaty fillet of lightly-browned hake benefited from a creamy cauliflower puree and tender heirloom vegetables. Frizzled chervil and leeks provided a tasty crunch. My friend's dish was more assertive but equally delicious. Crunchy-skinned roasted chicken with Brussels sprouts was served in a rich brown peppery jus over a bed of riebele, or grated German pasta. (Paul said that a fresh batch of this pasta is made every day.)

I was almost disappointed when dessert arrived, because our afternoon would soon be over. Chocolate mousse was a good choice for savoring slowly. It arrived with pink peppercorn whipped cream and strip of grapefruit gelee. The dessert summed up the whole delightful experience of Atria - tradition with a modern spark.

Atria: 13-15 West 54th St., (212) 315-9516.

Sweets News

To preface this edition of Sweets News, I must say how much I regret the closing of P*ong.

• April showers bring... macarons. To celebrate Spring, Tafu NYC (CLOSED 2009) as created a line of macarons in Japanese flavors like black sesame and matcha. They are $2.50 each.

• Are you feeling creative? Try to brainstorm Dunkin Donuts' newest flavor, and if your suggestion is chosen, you'll win a $12,000 prize! The deadline is April 7.

• Alexandra Leaf of Chocolate Tours NYC (isn't this wonderful?) will lead a chocolate factory tour on April 25 at 12:30 pm. To register, visit the ICE Website. (Apparently, it is recommended that you eat lunch beforehand, so as not to experience an insane sugar spike.)
  

Andy's Seafood & Grill

Forest Hillsers know how hard it is to score a table at East Ocean Palace, a popular Chinese restaurant with large fish tanks. As of this week, there's an alternative in nearby Rego Park, and what an alternative it is! Andy's Seafood Kitchen is a new Taiwanese/Szechuanese place on Queens Boulevard, and its menu boasts every imaginable treat from the sea. Are you craving sea cucumber? Have some in brown sauce, or with abalone. What about conch? It's served with chives, or with fried bean curd. Snails in black bean sauce, Taiwanese cuttlefish soup, fried baby oysters, squid with scallion and ginger, sauteed crab with vermicelli or black bean sauce... the list goes on and on. I stopped in today for the delectable sliced flounder in hot chili sauce - it was served in a bubbling broth, which was fragrant with cilantro, scallions, sesame oil and ginger.

Andy's has something for everyone. For the fan of Chinese-American food, there are scallion pancakes and sweet-and-sour pork. For the more adventurous, there are salt and pepper frogs' legs. And for those of us who are trying to conserve cash (and that's a lot of us these days) there is the already-legendary "Dollar Menu" (Monday-Friday, 11 am-4 pm). Served from a steam table, this menu includes Peking duck, crispy whole shrimps, pepper steak, and much more. Andy (yes, there really is an Andy), rounds up the items of your choice, and gracefully places them upon your plate - no messy communal buffet here!

Please visit Andy's, but leave me a table. I have a lot more eating to do here.

Andy's Seafood Kitchen: 95-26 Queens Blvd., Rego Park, (718) 275-2388.

A Eulogy, in Restaurants

Next week, I'll back to my regularly scheduled restaurant review, but in this post I wanted to pay homage to one of my favorite dining partners: my vivacious grandmother, who just passed away on Thursday at 91 (1917-2009). She is referenced in various posts on this blog.
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Grandma was always happiest when everyone was eating, although she would tell you that she herself ate like a bird. We painted the town red, going to Payard for tea, Sant Ambroeus for lunch, and Teodora for dinner. We hit all the hot spots; last year, my companion and I took her to Quality Meats. We were regulars at Elio’s; this was one of Grandma’s favorite restaurants, because she used to go there with my late grandfather. But no matter where we went, she would always ask, “What are you having? That's all? No appetizer, no salad? Are you enjoying your food?” (She would also mention that Grandpa would have liked what I was eating. He liked to read menus and eat exotic foods just like me.)

I discovered a lot of new foods in Grandma’s kitchen. She introduced me to egg barley, and she made all the Hungarian specialties like nockerl and kaposzta teszta. Grandpa would have all the ingredients for homemade fountain sodas in the fridge, and there was always lots of candy on the coffee table, so their apartment was really a great place for a kid.

As Grandma grew older, she wasn’t as able to cook, so we’d go out to Our Place on 3rd Avenue. One memorable night, we went there with my aunt, my father, and my brother. It was a rather challenging evening; we were all arguing with each other. My aunt had sent her food back twice, and the cook had put peppers in Grandma’s main dish (my aunt wanted to try it but had an allergy to peppers). I had to leave the table and take a deep breath. When I returned, it was time to open the fortune cookies, and Grandma’s said: “Your family is one of nature’s masterpieces.” We all burst out laughing.

Grandma lived through many ups and downs, surgeries, and the passing of my grandfather, whom she was always thinking about. But through it all, she maintained the most positive attitude - even after falling and breaking her arm in three places while in her mid-80's. It really didn’t take her long to recover; soon we were going out to the movies and Etats-Unis.

She appreciated every little thing, an iced coffee, a birthday card, her egg poacher, the smoked fish from Sable's, a short phone call, and the apricot cake from Andre’s Hungarian that I brought her this past Sunday - the last day I saw her.

Rest in peace, Grandma, and I hope there are some good restaurants in heaven.

Inakaya

Having not read much about Inakaya other than that it was a Japanese grill, I was utterly unprepared for the synchronized shouting and dancing of its cooks and servers. "Did we just walk into Cold Stone Creamery?" I asked my companion. Uniformed men cried out as they pounded mochi into submission, waiters loudly chanted orders, and there was an eruption of "Irrashaimase!" whenever a customer entered the restaurant.

The experience was rather jarring, which was a shame, because many of the grilled items were quite good. We sat at the counter, where baskets of fresh vegetables, meats and fish were laid out in a row. The cooks would pluck out our choice, cook it and deliver it on a long wooden plank. When the gummy taro potatoes ran out, they were replaced by golden-fleshed Japanese sweet potatoes served with a smear of sweet butter. We also enjoyed meaty grilled yellowtail filets in both teriyaki and sea salt preparations, and tsukune (chicken meatball skewers) in tare sauce. The grilled scallop was disappointingly bland, although attractively presented in a shell. (Our budgets did not allow for the $67 deep sea snapper.)

The cold dish menu included maguro natto (one of my favorite dishes); the raw tuna was sliced instead of cubed. (There was no maguro yamakake on the menu, although plain grated yam cake could be ordered.) There was also a sizeable sushi menu, which we didn't take advantage of.

It is this humble blogger's opinion that Inakaya might benefit from a menu apart from the a la carte, especially in this economic climate. Soup, rice, or salad could be included with a main course- it gets expensive when you are ordering four chunks of potato for $7, or a $9 skewer of mushrooms. And perhaps the theatrics could be toned down a bit.

Inakaya: 231 West 40th St., (212) 354-2195.

1492 Food

Do you ever walk by a restaurant, make a mental note to dine there someday, and then promptly forget the name? That's what I did, and after a Google search for "that tapas place on Clinton," I met a friend at Tapeo 29.

But I'd meant to go to 1492 Food. (Nothing against Tapeo 29, although it was rather noisy.) So, after a slightly uncomfortable exchange with the host, we exited, and walked down the block towards the restaurant that existed in both my memory and, fortunately, reality.

We loved the place from the first sip of sangria (red for us, but the restaurant also serves white). The waiter brought us a basket of fresh-baked Spanish bread. We were surprised to find that the accompanying condiment was not butter, but garlicky aioli. It was gone in about two seconds.

Although the chorizo lollipops and bacon-wrapped dates called to us, we were trying to eat light, as it was rather late. We began with soup. The special was a sort of zarzuela; it was packed with tender calamari, mussels and shrimp. The other soup was lentil, a nourishing rendition made with diced carrots. "The lentils are perfect; when they're overcooked, they get starchy," remarked my friend.

After the soup, we polished off the escalivada, a plate of dainty grilled veggies (artichokes, red peppers, tomatoes, eggplant) finished off with truffle oil. (Healthy, yes, but delicious!) Our last course was a plate of hearty porcini croquettes. Crunchy on the outside and creamy within, they were served with small dollops of mushroom mayonnaise. The bread came in very handy here.

Once the dessert menu arrived, I realized that our attempt at light eating was about to fall by the wayside. After being tempted by the chocolate molten lava cake, we ended up with the rich, dense chestnut cake (tarta de marrones). It was totally irresistible with its caramel topping and a side of fresh whipped cream.

After a couple of excellent cortados, we agreed to return for the 2-for-1 drink special, which is offered every Sunday, Monday and Tuesday. (Now that the name of the restaurant is established firmly in my memory, it should be easier to come back!)

1492 Food: 60 Clinton St., (646) 654-1114.

Taro Sushi

I haven't yet made it to Brooklyn's new Kappa Sake House or Zuzu Ramen (well, the latter isn't open until Tuesday, March 10 - it will offer novelties like green curry ramen as well as sake and beer). But I always enjoy the sake and sushi at Taro Sushi. I was first introduced to this Japanese gem by a Park Slope family whom I'll call The Olives. The Olives have two little girls who are rapidly broadening their palates at Taro. Tonight, they feasted on inside-out California rolls and shrimp tempura maki topped with rainbows of avocado and smoked salmon. But when one of the girls clamored for an item not on the menu (a bowl of plain tofu cubes), the waiter happily obliged.

I started my meal with a dish of chopped toro tartare, raw quail egg and lots of wasabi, and continued with two preparations of freshwater eel: plain with sea salt, and lightly sauced. Then I savored some yellowtail belly topped a white onion sauce, and an assertive mackerel slice. All of the fish was outstandingly fresh and presented with care.

But there was more than just sushi on the menu. The hot appetizer selection included such delicacies as simmered pork ribs and miso-cooked pork stomach. Mama Olive craved noodles, so she devoured a bowl of hot soba with spinach, seaweed and scallions. (I think she'll probably bring the Olive girls to Zuzu when it opens.)

Diners of all ages will enjoy Taro Sushi.

Taro Sushi: 446 Dean St., Brooklyn, (718) 398-0872.

Barnyard Cheese, Meats & Fine Foods

Gougeres are like potato chips; I can never eat just one. The addictive cheese puffs have stopped me from finishing many a meal at Benoit or Artisanal. But now I can stock up on these savory treats without making a dinner reservation; they're available by the bagful at Barnyard. This gourmet market sells all of my favorite things. Cheeses include Pleasant Ridge, Pecorino Toscano, Garrotxa, and chevre noir; co-owner Darren is generous with the samples. For charcuterie, there's Serrano ham and pancetta. The refrigerator is full of goodies like pesto, uncured duck sausage and duck bacon. The pantry abounds with sauces from Il Mulino and Rosa Mexicano, as well as condiments like Maldon sea salt. If you visit, don't forget to pick up a bag of those Taza organic cocoa nibs by the cash register!

Barnyard: 149 Avenue C, (212) 674-BARN. Daily sandwich specials.

Sweets News - Greenpoint and Williamsburg

• Cookie lovers in Greenpoint have been anxiously awaiting the opening of psychedelic-themed Cookie Road. The shop, which will serve Counter Culture coffee and an assortment of co-owner Aneta Szot's cookies, cakes and tarts (there's even a Liza Minnelli cookie), will be holding a meet-and-greet on Tuesday, March 3. Because the Department of Buildings has not yet issued the proper permits, no pastries will be on hand, but there will be free coffee! (Cookie Road: 94 Franklin St., Greenpoint, 718-383-8094.)
  

• Three-month-old Whisk, a delightful kitchen appliance store, contains a hidden surprise for the home baker. In the very center of the store, there's a tiny pantry stocked with edible glitter, turbinado, fondant and muscovado sugars, nonpareils, jimmies, and lots of other items to make a beautiful sweet. (Whisk: 231 Bedford Ave., Williamsburg, 718-218-7230.)
  

• You might have read about Mast Brothers Chocolate, which recently opened its newest location in Williamsburg (it had previously moved from the brothers' apartment to a Greenpoint space which was closed to the public). The factory, which produces chocolate from the bean to the bar, offers a truly special "Salt & Pepper" bar - a 60% cacao, dark milk chocolate confection made with brown sugar, sea salt and black peppercorns. According to Michael Mast, a line of truffles and hot chocolates is in the making. (Mast Brothers Chocolate: 105A North 3rd St., Williamburg, 718-388-2625. Open on Saturdays and Sundays.)

Winter Dining Deals in the Hamptons

This past weekend, my companion and I were reading the New York Times while taking the LIRR to East Hampton (we are big fans of off-season travel). I opened to the Escapes section and coincidentally happened upon the "Hamptons Before The Crowds" article. It mentioned winter deals at several lodging options (but conspicuously omitted the Mill House Inn, which is where my companion and I like to stay... on this visit, we had a great rate on a suite with a king bed, flat-screen TV, Serenity air jacuzzi, flat-screen TV, dual-head shower, and, of course, that famous breakfast).

It just so happens that the winter dining deals in the Hamptons are just as impressive as the lodging deals! Prix-fixe menus under $30 abound, especially on weekdays. My companion and sampled three of them during our stay.

We were most impressed by the $25 (three courses, or two courses with a glass of wine) prix-fixe at the 1770 House (29 Newtown Lane, East Hampton, 631-324-6300). In this historic dining room, the menu is divided into "From The Sea" and "From The Farm" sections. We ordered the organic smoked salmon tartare with potato crisps, an heirloom beet salad sprinkled with candied walnuts, perfectly seared diver scallops, and fettucini with black truffles, trumpet mushrooms, peas and Parmesan - the fettucini with Maine lobster was not available. The molten chocolate souffle cake with chunky peanut butter gelato is a must-try!

Nick and Toni's (136 North Main St., East Hampton, 631-324-3550) serves a special $30 Film and Food menu, which includes a ticket to the movies! My companion went with the $35 prix-fixe, choosing a chopped radish and cucumber salad, skirt steak on a bed of white beans, and chocolate custard. I ordered the creamy fennel soup special, a wonderful rigatoni with cauliflower, breadcrumbs and hot chili, and the poached pear hazelnut crisp. The next evening, we found ourselves at Della Femina (99 North Main St., East Hampton, 631-329-6666), which is quite popular with wine lovers. Some nights feature a free glass of house red or white. A $25 prix-fixe is served Sunday through Thursday, while a $30 menu is served on Friday and from 5:30-6:30 on Saturdays. What I most remember from this evening, besides the copious amount of wine, is the flourless chocolate souffle cake (obviously, I can't get enough of this dessert).

Hamptons Restaurant Week is coming up (March 29-April 5), and the $24.95 menus look mighty enticing. If you decide to pay a visit to the East End, here's my lodging tip: make a reservation at the Mill House Inn (31 North Main St., East Hampton, 631-324-9766) and enjoy the Restaurant Week discounts: $25 off for one night, or a $50 per night discount on more than one night. (Super suites are discounted by $50 or $100.)

Patel Brothers

The weak economy has many of us turning towards comfort food. A dish of rice and beans is protein-packed, filling, and cheap. But did you know that it can also be... exciting? Walk down the vast aisles of Patel Brothers in Jackson Heights and you'll be amazed at all the varieties of rice and beans. The back wall holds a rainbow of orange, yellow, white, green, and brown lentils (urad? toor? masoor? chana? moong? I can't even keep track of them all). There are all kinds of grains - thin and thick flattened rice (poha), giant bags of rice, spicy flour rings, and puffed lotus seeds.

Endless condiments and spices line the shelves. Mango, lime, garlic pickles? Mint or onion chutney? (I think I'll have to bring a dictionary of Indian spices with me the next time I visit. How to use... amla? asafoetida?) There is also a fresh produce section, and a freezer packed with novelties like mint-chili "paneer poppers" and cashew-raisin ice cream. And if the spicy cornflakes in the breakfast aisle are just too adventurous for you, look past them; there's a box of... Cheerios.

Patel Brothers: 37-27 74th St., Jackson Heights, (718) 898-3445.

Sweets News

Today's items focus, unsurprisingly, on chocolate!

• Jacques Torres will be giving a talk and holding a chocolate tasting at the 92nd Street Y on Monday, March 16, at 8 pm. (On a recent visit to his Brooklyn store, I was told that all of the nut butters used in the chocolates are homemade. So we can indulge in Mr. Torres' chocolate/peanut-butter truffles without worry! My undying favorite will always be the cinnamon-praline...)

• In other Jacques Torres-related news, on Friday, February 13, Harrah's Resort Atlantic City will be handing out Jacques Torres chocolates (and 5,000 free overnight Waterfront Tower stays!) to celebrate Mr. Torres' new Atlantic City store, Temptations Fine Chocolate and Coffee. The promotion takes place from 8:00 -10:00am at the corner of 48th St. & 6th Ave., and from noon - 1:00pm at the Jacques Torres Hudson Store (350 Hudson St.).
  

• Have you left Valentine's Day gifts till the last minute? Junior's has the solution: a chocolate ganache-covered cheesecake, baked in the shape of a heart. Call 1-800-9-JUNIOR!
  

• In April, Francois Payard released a fantastic new cookbook: "Chocolate Epiphany." His store on Lexington Avenue is offering a free postcard with one of the most popular recipes from the cookbook: spicy chcolate pots de creme.

• Finally, I just have to put in a word about Grom's hazelnut hot chocolate - if you haven't been drinking it all winter, make this the week to discover it!

Onda

The news from the Financial District is not all grim; a mini-Restaurant Row is taking root on Front Street between Peck Slip and Beekman. The latest opening is that of 2 1/2-week-old Onda. With its strong drinks, light bossa soundtrack, and cuisine full of zest and spice, this pan-Latin place might take the edge off one's longing for a Caribbean vacation. (I am suffering from such a longing, but whenever I choose a specific travel date, the vacation price inexplicably doubles.)

The room evokes a poolside courtyard at a tropical resort. Mexican tiles adorn the banquettes, and dim aqua light shimmers from the lanterns reflecting off of the metallic epoxy floor. Last night, a friend and I sat at a corner table at the back of the room, admiring the scene.

Our server brought by a Havana-style mojito and a bourbon drink with orange liqueur. The mojito was chock-full of mint, not too sweet, and so deceptively strong that I had to pause after drinking about an inch of it. It was a good time to pause, because just then, a basket of warm Manchego flatbread and paprika-dusted garbanzo spread arrived.

"What shall we order?" I wondered. There were salads, ceviches, hot appetizers, fish, meat, a paella and several sides. Several dishes sported an Asian influence, as chef Raymond Mohan is inspired by Chinese-Peruvian cuisine - a snapper ceviche contained tapioca pearls, and there was a Chifa-style fish.

We decided on two ceviches, smoked duck flatbread, Chifa-style branzino, Lima-style chicken, "Spanish" fries and asparagus. We were completely unprepared for the sheer amount of food that soon graced our table - the portions were exceedingly generous! The hamachi tiradito was a plate of rich yellowtail sashimi slices, dotted with small pineapple chunks and drizzled with yuzu creme fraiche. Striped bass ceviche in citrus sauce, served in a transparent red dish, had a real jalapeno kick - the accompanying passionfruit sorbet soothed the bite. We were to find that many of the dishes were accented with tropical fruit, but the main ingredients were never overpowered by it.

The smoked duck flatbread was a sort of pizza. A long oval dough was smothered with earthy porcini spread and melted Manchego. Rosy pink duck slices lay atop the cheese, each one with a sherried cherry. (This dish is a good choice for those who shrink from spicy.)

We were already approaching fullness at this point, but the impressive main courses soon followed. When my whole grilled branzino first arrived, I worried that it would be overwhelmed by its soy broth, but this was not the case at all - the soy-ginger sauce was very light and not salty, and the fish was as flavorful as could be. It was topped with cilantro leaves, scallions and jalapenos.

At $18, the Lima-style chicken was a feast for a king - a crispy-skinned half-chicken came with a spicy red onion slaw ("These are my favorite flavors," remarked my friend, "red onion, cilantro and jalapenos." She had obviously come to the right place!). We were embarrassed by how little we could finish of the thin asparagus slices in spicy aioli and the formidable mountain of Spanish fries. For the latter, a fork was a must - Idiazabal cheese was melted all over the potatoes. There were also red onions and jalapenos over top, but I forked them aside in favor of the buttery cheese.

We didn't expect to order dessert after all of this, but it's funny how that happens. Soon we were diving into caramelized rum bananas in a crispy cookie shell, and Chinese spoons containing eggless basil ice cream sprinkled with salted almond praline, and a truly remarkable warm chocolate cake. (A spoonful of fruit was intended for mixing in with the cake, but the dessert was already perfect with its scoop of vanilla bean ice cream.)

A good cup of coffee is essential at any Latin American restaurant, and I was supplied with a smooth Essse espresso. Sipping contentedly, I looked at my friend and said, "All we need now is a hammock."

Onda Restaurant: 229 Front St., (212) 513-0770.

Falai Panetteria

Falai Panetteria, the most casual of Iacobo Falai's three restaurants, is well-known for pear-chocolate tarts, chocolate fondants, tiramisu and other desserts. But what I didn't know is that the place serves an outstanding veggie lasagna (I have yet to try the bolognese). Light on the cheese, but heavy on sauce bursting with vibrant tomato flavor and a variety of tender vegetables, it set me back only around $10 tonight. Of course, that wasn't the only thing my friend and I ordered...

...there was also a great spinach gnocchi covered with melted Parmesan and smothered in fresh pesto, and a plate of rare, herb-crusted tuna slices on bruschetta, which were also topped with marvelously sweet roasted cherry tomatoes. I also have to mention the generous basket of focaccia with which we sopped up every last bit of pesto. Not one dish crossed the $13 mark, so we felt free to order to our hearts' (and appetites') content.

We finished with a "black moon" dome filled with chocolate mousse and spiced cream on a biscuit base - a disc of white and dark chocolate adorned the top. I restrained myself from taking home some of the semolina tarts that I'd enjoyed on a previous visit, but I know I'll be back soon - to try the lasagna bolognese.

Falai Panetteria: 79 Clinton St., (212) 777-8956.

Salumeria Rosi

A crush of people filled the narrow entrance of Salumeria Rosi this afternoon. They were craning their necks to catch a glimpse of the counter, which displayed prosciutto bread, purple cauliflower salad and Taleggio cheese. It took me a minute to differentiate between the eat-in and take-out lines. Once I figured this out, it took many more minutes to actually be seated. I watched as two tables were set, one was reset, and a table of three was reseated at a table more to their liking. Finally, the host (whom I suspect was irritated with me because of my apparent impatience) waved me, menuless, towards the bar.

Fortunately, once I did sit down, the kitchen was as fast as wildfire. Everything I ordered arrived in quick succession - and it was impossible not to order a whole host of items, as there's such a delightful variety at Salumeria Rosi. There are house-cured meats, goat, cow and sheep's milk cheeses, salads and various small plates.

First I went for the salumi and cheese, ordering the Parmigiano Reggiano and some porchetta toscana. A basket of crusty bread came with the dishes. Several chunks of sweet-salty hard cheese arrived on a balsamic-drizzled little plate. The two paper-thin slices of porchetta were redolent of rosemary and as tender as toro sashimi. I was glad for the lemony shredded endive salad that arrived afterwards (I recommend it as a palate cleanser).

Then it was time for sweet butternut squash risotto, which was absolutely wonderful. Crushed amaretti were sprinkled over a creamy orange expanse of butternut squash puree, which contained plump grains of Arborio rice. The portion size was perfect.

I really should have quit while I was ahead, but the dessert menu called to me. I settled on the torta di mele, which was light as air between its soft apple slices. A dollop of real whipped cream was served on the side. I finished the meal with a nice strong cup of espresso.

Good things come to those who wait!

Salumeria Rosi: 283 Amsterdam Ave., (212) 877-4800.

Restaurant Week - Fleur De Sel (CLOSED 2/09)

Once again, it's that wonderful time for year: "Restaurant Week" (it's actually two weeks - ETA, they just changed it to a month for this year). Last year, I dined at Riingo; this year, I decided on Fleur de Sel. The restaurant proved very accommodating to last-minute reservations changes; I'd asked for a table for two at 1 p.m., but our party suddenly expanded to three. On the phone, the reservationist said she could probably fit us in at a tight corner table that is sometimes used for trios, but when we arrived, we were comfortably seated at a table for four.

The $24.07 lunch menu included a choice of butternut squash soup or sardine napoleon, pan-seared blue cod or veal breast topped with a large oxtail ravioli, and macerated prune bread pudding or sorbet with meringue. All three of us ordered the same main course and dessert, but diverged with the appetizers. (There was an optional wine pairing, but it was just too early in the day for this - especially after last night's overindulgence at Artisanal.)

Warm sourdough bread got us going, and then the two of us who had ordered the soup drank in the heady flavors of truffle and coconut. A white puff of coconut milk foam decorated the bright orange squash puree, which was laced with truffle oil. The sardine napoleon was a savory curiosity (how do I eat this, my friend wondered) of three thin, crunchy Parmesan crackers layered with soft, salty sardines, and it was served with a small arugula salad.

The pan-seared blue cod lay atop a carrot coulis, which contained "rice beans" ("These are like the orzo of beans," remarked my friend. I'd been unaware of the existence of this legume and mistakenly thought the dish would be served with rice and beans), onions, diced tomatoes and chives - altogether delicious.

Warm, buttery bread pudding had a moist prune filling, and the side scoop of caramel ice cream melted appealingly into its bed of cookie crumbs. Strong coffee came with complimentary biscotti. (Although the restaurant was full, we were not rushed out after our coffee.)

Fleur de Sel will also be serving this menu next week.

Fleur de Sel: 5 East 20th St., (212) 460-9100.

Sweets News

• The newest location of the vaunted Roasting Plant (75 Greenwich Ave.) serves more than just coffee - it is also selling $1 "cookie dough shots." There are mint brownie, chocolate-chip and Oreo flavors, and when summer rolls around, you'll be able to mix the dough into the gelato of your choice.

• Here's a bit of cookbook news: Barbara Passino, the chef/owner of Napa Valley's Oak Knoll Inn, is about to release Chocolate For Breakfast, a selection of both sweet and savory recipes. Pre-order your copy, and soon you'll be making poached apples in chocolate gingerbread cookie cups, chocolate tacos, and even a chocolate omelette!

• But if you can't wait for the book's release, and you want to incorporate chocolate into your breakfast routine immediately, take a look at this lovely chocolate con churros recipe (and delightful article) from Alejandra Garcia on NPR.
  

Dirt Candy

The prospect of a hearty meal was the only thing that could pull me out of my apartment tonight. A friend had invited me out for a belated birthday dinner, so I'd reserved one of Dirt Candy's nine tables. As I walked outside, hail hit me on the head, and a harsh wind assaulted me. But all I could think about was the opportunity to reacquaint myself with Amanda Cohen's vegetarian cooking, which I had so admired at now-defunct Heirloom.

My friend and I started out with a plate of jalapeno hush puppies, happily smearing our spicy cornmeal crunchies with lots of maple-flavored butter. (Like all other dishes on the menu, the hush puppies can be made vegan on request. That does not mean that any random request will be fulfilled - I was surprised to overhear a diner try to order scrambled egg whites.) Next, we enjoyed bowls of vibrant, ginger-scented spinach soup. Not being cream-based, the soup was deliciously light. In each bowl floated three dumplings stuffed with smoked tofu and diced water chestnuts.

One of my favorite dishes of the evening was the portobello mousse appetizer with truffled toasts. The mousse had the texture of Japanese goma-dofu, but with an intense mushroom flavor instead of sesame. The square plate also included some sweet fennel-pear compote and a heap of meaty-tasting portobello slices.

Our main courses were arranged like meat-based dishes, with proteins at the center of beds of vegetables or grains. The crispy tofu resembled a seared salmon fillet, and it lay atop a melange of green vegetables like edamame and kohlrabi. I ordered the tempura egg on stone-ground grits... the white was well-done, but as I cut further in, the bright orange organic yolk ran out and swirled into the grits. There were also pickled shiitakes, corn kernels, watercress, and huitlacoche (edible black corn fungus) in the dish. I really don't think a meat-eater would go hungry at Dirt Candy! (According to Ms. Cohen, the majority of her clientele are not total vegetarians.)

A birthday isn't complete without dessert, and there were two versions of "cake and ice cream" on the menu. One featured sesame and grapefruit, the other, chocolate, sweet potato and chili. (The pastry chef, Debbie Lee, used to work at P*Ong, one my favorite restaurants. Incidentally, I was just there last night, devouring the hot dark chocolate with milk foam and pomegranate.) I ordered Cake and Ice Cream #2; there was a scoop of sweet potato sorbet adorned with a dried sweet potato chip, some chocolate chili ice cream, and a square of fudgy chocolate cake. (I just wish the cake had been hot, so I could have made a glorious mess with the ice cream and sorbet. But the dessert was still very enjoyable!)

Maybe I'm jumping the gun, as I just got home, but my next visit to Dirt Candy will involve mixed greens with grilled cheese croutons, carrot risotto, and popcorn pudding.

Dirt Candy: 430 East 9th St., (212) 228-7732.

Chocolates for All Personality Types

It's never too early to start thinking about Valentine's Day - and all of its attendant chocolates! My little list of chocolates by personality will ensure that your chocolate gift is as unique as the person you're buying it for:

• The Earthy-Crunchy: Your environmentally aware friend will appreciate a recycled box of Fine & Raw's dark chocolate bonbons made with raw blue agave nectar, virgin coconut oil and a touch of Himalayan sea salt. (To me, they taste like adult Mounds bars, but without all the cloying sweetness.) You can find these at gourmet or natural food stores around the city - I happened to get mine at Sustainable (109 Ave. A, 212-254-5400).
  

• The Artsy-Fartsy: The aesthete will marvel at a box of beautifully decorated truffles from Eric Gererd's L'Atelier Du Chocolat (59 West 22nd St., 212-243-0033). I first tasted Mr. Gererd's chocolates at Brooklyn's Bierkraft in 2003. Although none of the beer flavors have made it to the new menu, there's a wasabi truffle with a bamboo leaf pattern, a red-and-brown zig-zagged red forest fruit in dark chocolate ganache, and a heart-covered rosewater truffle. For Valentine's Day, there will be special hollow chocolate hearts! It's enough to make you feel like you're in love, even if you aren't.

• The Comfort Foodie: What could be more comforting, or more chocolatey, than the double chocolate and triple chocolate cupcakes at Dessert Club Chikalicious (204 East 10th St., 212-475-0929)? Call the night before Valentine's Day and they will make up a pretty box for you.

• The Do-It-Yourselfer: Give someone a chocolate truffle; you have fed her for today. Teach someone to make her own chocolate truffles, and you have fed her for a lifetime. A gift certificate towards the French Culinary Institute's upcoming "Chocolate Truffles, Bonbons & More" course will go a long way towards making your special someone into an expert chocolatier. You might indirectly benefit! (More info at 888-324-CHEF.)
  

Tacos Mexico

This week, New York Magazine includes a list of the best foods under $10. Although the list neglects Queens, if you're willing to take the N train a few stops past Lexington & 59th St. into Astoria, you'll find one of the very best (and most delicious) deals in town: the awesome chiles rellenos at Tacos Mexico. Try to finish them, I dare you! Two mild green peppers are lightly battered, stuffed with melted queso blanco, smothered in a hearty tomato sauce, and served with a three-day supply of refried pinto beans, Spanish rice, and five or six warm tortillas. Price? $10.95.

And if you want something other than a stuffed pepper, you can order: nachos, tamales, quesadillas, flautas, chalupas, tostadas, tacos, tortas, cemitas, sopes, huaraches, burritos, enchiladas, chilaquiles, and giant plates of chicken, beef or pork fajitas. Wash everything down with a glass of horchata, and don't forget to take your to-go bag home with you. Happy New Year!

Tacos Mexico: 32-08 38th St., Astoria, (718) 545-5888.